Here, the cocktail list is every bit as elaborate, but with invented examples startling in their composition. The signature cocktail of the traditional supper club was the Old Fashioned, which could often be made in a dozen different ways: sweet or dry, with bourbon or with brandy, and with potential garnishes that included dill pickle, olives, pickled mushrooms, and artichoke hearts. It seemed a bit strange that there were no accompaniments other than a zippy green relish (white rice might have been appropriate), but Bangkok Supper Club is a place that resists carbs for the sake of carbs. But we did order the whole branzino ($45), which arrived boneless and flattened, with the skin imperially crisp and the flesh pale and fluffy. There’s a NY strip steak ($48) with a roasted tomato that we didn’t try. The whole branzino is one of the large dishes at Bangkok Supper Club.Īlso like a supper club, the most prominent dishes feature steak and seafood. A second section is devoted to larger plates, but there are no snacks, bread courses, or desserts, and no sides to speak of (with the exception of charred purple cabbage, which was unavailable on our visit). The tongue, shrimp, and duck egg are from the small plates section of a menu that is supper-clubby in its simplicity, consisting of only 16 dishes in two categories. The dish is flavored with cured and crumbled egg yolks tiny orange trout roe add to this avalanche of funky flavors. A duck egg fried to perfection - the albumen browned and crinkly along its circumferential edges - sticks up from a salad of tomato and extra-sharp Chinese celery. The texture is divine, every bit as good as a Mexican tongue taco, but possessing those sharp, citrusy, and slightly fishy northeastern Thai flavors.Ī fried or boiled egg is often a bonus ingredient in Bangkok street food, but in yum khai dao it grabs the spotlight. Here, called lin yang ($23), it has been brined in lemongrass and gingery galangal, then grilled and sliced. Isan cooking, popular in Bangkok, features all sorts of sliced and slivered meats as drinking snacks and salads, but I’d never seen beef tongue on a Thai menu before. This fundamental Thai dish really does feel like it was flown from the streets of the Thai capital, and herbs ride shotgun on top. Satays undergo a similar transformation, with a pair of shell-on shrimp grilled over smoky charcoal and then planted on a thick coconut curry-cashew sauce, shining a brilliant orange color. Instead of the usual choice of chicken, shrimp, or pork, slices of seared hog jowl are fanned on top, and the powerfully flavored rice is strewn with crunchy pig skin. The garlic fried rice ($35) is to die for. The fried duck egg with salad and cured yolk.
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